Trousers.



I. M. norm. TROUSERS.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 26, I917 Patented Sept. 3, 1918.

IIIIIIIIIII- STA Ed rsmonn MORRIS court, or new YORK, n. Y.

rrno'csnns.

harness.

In the present commonly adopted con-- struction of the trousers top a waist band is formed by sewing a piece of stifi'ening material, such as canvas to the inside surface of the side ieces of the trousers adjacent the upper e ge thereof. A piece of lining is then sewed over the canvas, the upperportion of the lining being first folded inward about a half inch to'form a smooth upper edge. Stitches are usually applied at the upper end and mid-width of the lining, the latter stitches passing through the canvas adjacent the lower edge thereof. The stiiiening piece is thus attached to the side pieces by two lines of stitches while the top edge of the lining is attached by means of an extra line of stitches. 'regive a more substantial waist band, the lower portion of the lining is usually also folded inward about one inch and a line ofstitohes applied thereto adjacent the edge of the infolded flap thus formed to keep the latter from unfolding and dropping down. The pockets are usually -formed of the same material as the lining and the upper portions thereof are'inserted underneath the loweredge of the stifi'ening canvas to he there sewed together with the latter to the side pieces. The lower half of the lining of the waist band is thus left hanging over the pockets and extra tacks are taken to attach this hanging portion .at several points to the upper portions of the pockets. 7

It will thus he clear that in the present method of finishing trousers a multiplicity of distinct folding and sewing operations .is required. ,The conditions of manufacture at present are such that the finishing is not usually done at the factory where the un- Specification-of Letters Patent.

,Waisthand, all of which materially enhances the cost of production.

Patented Sept. 3, 1918.

Application filed February 26, 1917. Serial No. 150,954.

causes the trousers top to be unnecessarily v bulky and uncomfortable, especially at the pockets where there are bunched together, the canvas, the upper portion of the pockets, and two thicknesses of lining, and the extra cost of production is consequently not only unwarranted, but is applied to produce an extremely undesirable structure.

My main object in this invention, therefore, is to.do awaywith the waist band entirely and to substitute therefor a process of finishingv the trousers top which shall be so extremely simple that it can be done at the factory proper in very short time, at a reduced cost.

- Another object of my invention is to provvide trousers having a simple and inexpen- A still further object of my invention 1s to provide trousers which shall be cheap to manufacture.

Further objects and advantages of my invention will appear'from the description. and the features of novelty will be particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 1- is a perspective view of the upper portion of a pair of trousers showing my novel waist construction.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view partly in section showing the construction of a side piece after the first operation inmy novel finishing process.

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the side piece after the finishing by my new process is complete.

Fig. 4 is a detailed-view showing my new pocket construction. a

Fig. 5 is a detailed sectional view out along line 55 of Fig.4.

Referring particularly to the drawing, 10

are the side pieces of the trousers and 11 the waist portion which I form in the novel manner hereinafter described.

In my construction, I eliminate entirely the waist band. Instead I make the side pieces somewhat longer than the required leh for any given size and turn the upper buttons-18 lbiilky and more comfortable pocket con before the latter may 'portion thereof inward forming a narrow down-turned extremity 12. Underneath this down-turned edge, I now insert a stiffening band 13 such as canvas, and then sew the upper edge of the latter tothe side piece by means of the line of stitches 14, as will be clear from Fig. 2. The width of the stifi'en-' ing band 13 lssomewhat less than that of performed in a short time right at the factory, and with the use of no extra material. The combined effect of this construction is to form on the top of the trousers a neat cuff likeportion 16 set off from the mainbody of the .trousers by a line of demarcation made by the machine stitches 15-. The usual belt straps II are attached preferably on the outside of the cuff portion and are made preferably of a length substantially equal-to the width of the calf portion, and these thus add to the appearance of the latter and help to make it stand out more distinctly. The

are attached preferably on the inside of t e cuff portion as shown, and the trousers top is then complete. As I have already stated, I elimi'nateentirely the waist lining. This not onl decreases the cost of labor and materia but provides several additional advantages which will now be explained in detail. In ready-to-wear trousers, it is usual to provide for an increase in girth, if'necessary. This is done by folding in the side pleces as at 19 and holding them together by the stitches 20. Below the saidtacks, the side pieces converge to form a V21 which may be let out for increasing the girth of the trousers by opening the tacks 22 joining v the back sides 23. In the ordinary form of waist structure now commonly in usethe llnlng or a strip thereof bridges this \I and be ripped. This is avoided in my novel construction in that I dispense with the waist lining entirely, and the V is thus always exposed andready to be 0 ened.

A further advantage flowing om my lining-less structure isthat of a s' pler, less inexpensive to make,

be opened to take up some of the material thereof, the lining must struction. As will be clear from Figs. 4,

and 5, the pockets 24 are provided with a tab 25 which is inserted underneath the stiffening band 13 before the final stitches 15 are taken. They are then attached along their width b pieces and a so by means of the tacks 27. This makes a very neat pocket construction, free from the multiplicity of layers of lining necessitated by the ordinary form of trousers top construction.

The fly (not shown) is of course also free from lining and adds to the simplicity of structure and to the comfort of the wearer.

The pattern of the pieces of the trousers is, of course, changed at the waist to provide for the extended cufl' portions.

It will thus be clear that I have provided a pair of trousers which is very simple and neat in appearance, and comfortable to the wearer; and that I have provided a method for finishing the trousers top which requires but very few .short'and simple operations, and decreases ters Patent is:

, 1. In mens trousers a lining-less waist portion formed from a continuation of the trouser top and comprlsinga turned down stitches 26 to the side or back extremity integral with said continuation of the trouser top,*a stiffening band stitched to the edges of said extremity, said extr'em ity and. stiffening band being infolded for a width corresponding to the width of the latter and stitches taken through said extremity and the .body of the garment for securing said inturned waist portion to the latter.

2. The method of finishing a. pair of trousers consisting in providing the latter with an extra long body portion, turning the edge of said body portion down on the inside to form a narrowv turned down extremity, inserting a stiffening band within said extremity, stitching said band adjacent the upper edge thereof to said extremity, folding the body portion together with. said attached stiffening band down' on the inside,

and stitching through the extremity of the last mentioned turned down portion thusv forming the waist portion of the trousers.

Signed at New. York in the county New York and State of New day of February, A. D. 1917.

rsmonE MORRIS ooHN.

- Witnesses:

SAMUEL KAHAN, MoRRIs Kmsonsrnm.

York this 23rd 

